We traverse a two-track on a winding journey through the Hevier bush. To my right, an anthill rises up out of the grass like a giant pyramid made of mottled red clay. To my left, nothing but green bush that extends for as far as the eye can see. We come upon a well and a water tower made of concrete. Turns out, that's our marker. Not more than 50 meters in the distance, a clearing emerges in the...