Taiga is the law, bear is the master

Published time: March 27, 2010 07:48
Edited time: March 28, 2010 03:48

Just a four-hour flight from Moscow to western Siberia is the picturesque Kemerovo Region. A land renowned for its industrial history and rich cultural roots, and where bears really are a man's best friend.

Brown bears can be furry and cute. They may be, but do not be fooled by their looks: they are wild animals with all that implies.

In the Kemerovo Region bears really do wander the streets and drink vodka, and even munch on the odd cigarette – if offered.

Shocking to most, bear owner Viktor Kirpichnikov, says he acts only out of love.

“These bears are my life. And it’s for their own good I don’t set them free as they wouldn’t know how to cope in the wild. Their mother was killed by hunters when they were just a few months old. We rescued them,” he explained.

But for those who prefer their animals roaming free, there is a whole other world to discover in Russia’s Kemerovo region.

Five hours’ drive from the city and you enter a mountainous winter wonderland.

The taiga forest stretches for as far as the eye can see, and the history is as thick and rich as its carpet of snow.

Long before the Russians came in the 17th Century, this region was a tapestry of different nomadic tribes.

Ancient traces of a bygone age suggest life here began thousands years ago in the Bronze Age.

In some of Kemerovo’s more remote villages, people still live a traditional hunter and gatherer way of life.

The local sheriff, Valery Topakov, has been responsible for 19 villages – most of which have no electricity, shops or medical facilities – since the 1980s so people rely on the sheriff to keep them connected.

The furthest village lies some 60 kilometers away and consists of just 12 houses.

And when temperatures veer from minus to plus 35 degrees centigrade, his biggest challenge is how to reach them.

“I ski. If I leave at 2am, I’m there by 1pm. It’s the only way, especially by April when the snow’s begun to melt and spring re-appears,” Valery Topakov, local Ust’ Kabyrza Sheriff, said.

“Modern skis are no good as they don’t have enough traction. But mine are handmade in the traditional way, and covered in horse hair, meaning I can climb the difficult slopes.”

But for those less fit, there is another way to tackle the snow-drenched Siberian taiga – by skidoo. And even then, the elements can prove too much.

The thickness of the snow makes it incredibly difficult, even for experienced hunters, and an attempt to make way deep into the Siberian forest proves to be a real challenge.

Local legend has it that deep in the woods there is a cave where Kemerovo’s Big Foot or Yeti lives. The nearest town is only 50 kilometers away and several people claim to have seen the big man himself, or know someone who has.

Nevertheless, as for Big Foot, Sheriff Valery Topakov is skeptical.

“No such thing exists! But we do believe that a spiritual force, the Master of the Mountain, lives here and looks over the forest. When our hunters come into the taiga, they always leave gifts as a sign of respect,” he said.

Topakov has been coming to this cave since he was a boy and knows each step by heart.

He said he is still amazed by the scale and beauty of its ice stalactites and stalagmites.

Kemerovo region is an ancient, vast and contradictory land shrouded in natural beauty, history and legend – the true Siberia.

Comments (3)

Kinda Karen 30.10.2011 03:52

I have a Rottweiler dog that thinks he's a bear, and that's good enough for me. But as far as the Yeti sightinhgs go, our family thinks it may often be our hairy cousin Jerry. He is never around when bigfoot sightings appear, and since he has always had a big wanderlust, his travel stories seem to place him in the region of the sightings. When he was a young boy, he would hide in tall grass and bushes and shoot passersby in the ass with his Daisy BB gun. He would be dressed in a gorilla suit when he did this, in order to make people think they were being molested by a big hairy ape. Great fun really, unless you were the one getting shot in the ass. He invited me to tag along one afternoon, and he shot his big brother in the ass just outside my grandmother's house. "Mama, mama", he cried, "Jerry is shooting me in the ass again with his BB gun!" So I presumed he did this quite often.   As far as the Yeti in the Leningrad Region goes, that may be a taxicab driver that operates between St. Petersburg and Gatchina. I met him in 2001, and he fits the description given of the Yeti.

Playing Bigfoot makes a great practical joke.

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cska 27.03.2010 22:30

Christopher, zoos are designed for entertainment, not to help animals. That is why we support those who are truly trying to care for such animals, such as this guy.

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Christopher 27.03.2010 15:35

Great story. I would love to try the cross country skis with the horse hair bottoms. I read about that method many years ago when I got my first skis. You have to love the man with the bears. Most of the bears in the USA in captivity were orphans as well. People that don't like zoos forget that these animals would have died withour their mothers to teach them how to find food and protect them from predators.

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